INC Interviews Chef Sriram Aylur

Sriram Aylur’s lifelong passion for food began in the kitchen of his father’s restaurant. After joining Taj Hotels in 1989, he honed his skills and eventually opened Karavalli, an authentic South Indian eatery that made The Statesman’s list of the top 5 restaurants in India. He later relocated to London, where in 1999 he opened Quilon, tackling the challenge of introducing Southwest Indian cuisine to a new audience. In 2008, Quilon became the first South Indian restaurant in the world to be awarded a Michelin star, reflecting Sriram’s progressive vision of cuisine.

How did your early experiences in India shape your approach as a chef?

From the first time I stepped into my father’s kitchen, it was the beginning of a long quest for passion and knowledge of food. I remember being fascinated by the smell and aromas which used to come from the kitchen —it was my first love.

I was inspired by the way my father used to work in the restaurant in India. It was admirable to see that with all the hard work and effort put in by my father and his staff, they all still managed to enjoy themselves and laughter always filled the kitchen.

How would you describe your cooking style? What types of cuisine inspire you?

My cooking is very much inspired and guided by traditional, classical techniques and recipes. However, my international exposure and experience helps me to experiment, enhance and push boundaries. I am inspired by many cuisines, including French, Japanese, Thai, South American, etc.

What prompted you to relocate to London and open Quilon?

We started Karavalli 23 years back and I was part of the team that implemented the project. London had its first upmarket Indian restaurant: the Bombay Brasserie. Once this succeeded, a lot of restaurants in the same style opened up. We just thought it was time to showcase different cuisine styles of India and the obvious one was to do a South Indian restaurant, more so after the success of Karavalli in Bangalore.

London has the most adventurous guests in the world. Hence everybody is open to trying new cuisines. With the world being so well connected and travel becoming so frequent and easy, the guests also have a fair exposure to and knowledge of different cuisines. If there is anything new to be tried in the world of cuisine, London is the place.

How do you strike a balance between traditional South Indian cuisine and what you call progressive cooking?

The Quilon menu has broadly two approaches that we follow. One, we have dishes that are classical dishes from the region. The only thing that we tweak is the spice level. We try and keep it slightly lower than in India, just to make it acceptable to the international guests we attract. The second approach is what I call progressive cooking. We create dishes in our kitchens that have all the ingredients from the south of India but may use a perishable ingredient from a local source (like asparagus, black cod, scallops, etc.). Thus, the dish that we create very much complements the region we represent and also complements the classical dishes we do. We import ingredients that are not locally available to ensure we are as good as back home. The only difference is that the spice level is slightly lower.

How would you describe the dining experience that you aim to provide?

Britain, especially London, is a melting pot of cultures. We get guests from all over the world, and once someone lives in London for over a year, he or she becomes very adventurous and discerning. As long as you give them a great experience in terms of food, service and cuisine, they are the easiest guests in the world to deal with.

In your opinion, how can nuts and dried fruits improve a dish?

Nuts and dried fruits can enhance the creaminess, natural sweetness, textures and flavors, and complement dishes. They can bring nutty flavor and add a crunchy or chewy texture to a dish. They can also enhance the color of the dish. The ability to use nuts and dried fruits in their whole form or in different sizes and textures, including in a fine form, helps to create a multi-sensory experience.

What’s next for Chef Sriram Aylur?

London is the gourmet capital of the world, along with New York. It would take a lifetime to experience all cuisines and the different interpretations of these cuisines in a city like London. This brings the challenge of discerning guests with fierce competition. The finest chefs from all over the world come to London to enjoy a part of this action. Thus, we have to evolve our product and experiment all the time. I love the food business. I love this interaction that we have on a professional level and the challenges this brings along. It is a business that makes you think on your feet and be creative all the time —this keeps me going.

QUICK-FIRE ROUND!

What do you enjoy the most about being a chef?

I have been privileged and honored to meet some of the most important people in business, politics, music, sports, acting, CEOs and business leaders. Some of this interaction is very inspiring and thought-provoking. It at times makes one’s thinking change. Some of them become good friends, philosophers and guides.

What is your personal favorite dish with nuts or dried fruits?

Pistachio cake. The use of cashew in savory dishes, especially tender cashew. Almond powder to make a beautiful halwa. Dried fruit barfi. Pecan nut and caramel ice cream. Roasted peanut butter as a spread. The list could go on —I am drooling at the thought!

What is the next big culinary trend?

Cooking will be more about sourcing classic ethnic cooking techniques. Traditional cooking, especially, will be appreciated more than ever before. The health benefits of ingredients will be better understood, thus better used. For example, the benefits of dried fruits and nuts are not understood fully; this will be better understood and used.

What nuts or dried fruits do you always have in your kitchen at home?

We have a large variety of dried fruits and nuts. We are all great fans of them. We always have roasted peanuts, almonds, pecan nuts, cashews, prunes, raisins, walnuts, pistachios and Brazil nuts.